Milan fashion reflects drab off runway
Daniela Petroff

MILAN(Italy)—Fashion seems to tiptoe around Milan these days, rather than strut down the runway as it did in the heyday of the “moda Milanese.” From the scarcity of glitzy parties, to the empty seats in the VIP section at the shows, to the sobriety of the styles, the current week of Italian preview showings promises a somber fall-winter 2008-2009 season.
Recession is the talk of the town, and the strong euro is visibly taking its toll. The streets usually filled with fashionistas taking advantage of the shows for an Italian shopping spree, are sadly quiet, and the once bustling stores often empty. “It’s a difficult moment,” said Andrea Della Valle, vice president of the Tod’s leather company, famous for its bags and shoes, at a recent meeting of high-end fashion companies in Milan. However, Della Valle expects things to improve by 2009.
The downbeat mood could not help but creep onto the winter runway, starting with the palette. It begins with basic black, and doesn’t get any brighter than light grey and beige. A series of muted fall colours ranging from pomegranate red to eggplant blue, moss green and leaf yellow add a bit of spice to the bland colour scheme. The long, lean silhouette also reflects the times. Gone are the sexy styles which made Milan the hottest runway on the fashion map, to be replaced by outfits so prim they would feel more at home in a convent than a club.
That is unless you are Miuccia Prada, who transformed lace from demure to daring Tuesday night, outfitting her ladies in body-hugging black dresses. Optimism should be moderated, however. The high-collared look, worn with hair strictly pulled back in a chignon and almost no makeup, could also fill the wardrobe of the not-so-merry widow. “I have always hated lace,” said Prada, famous for her unfussy minimalist styles. “But I love a challenge, and thought it could work for my new ‘femme fatale.’”